Monday, April 8, 2019

Three Days in Rome

Rome

Here I am back for the penultimate post for this travel series. I will do one more post after we return, and by then I hope to have sorted through the pictures and added them into the appropriate prior posts.

But for now, this is our summary of Rome. As I write this, we are resting with our feet up in the hotel room having done a whirlwind 2 1/2 day Rome tour. We have been blessed with absolutely gorgeous weather for most of our time here despite the predicted three days of rain. The only rain we had was about two hours on Sunday morning at the start of the marathon. Other than that, it has been blue sky, puffy white clouds just like in New Mexico, and temperatures of about 60-63 which has made it just perfect to stroll outside.

Saturday we had an 80-seat double decker bus with only 20 of us aboard. (It would return to the ship full of embarking passengers later in the afternoon). We dropped our luggage at our little hotel right in the center of Rome and then took off on a walking tour of some of the major sites. Our hotel is about a three minute walk from Campo de Fiori, which is a fruit and vegetable market in the mornings and filled with restaurants and diners in the evenings. We are also about a 10 minute walk from both piazza Navona and the Pantheon. So of course we went to try both of those on the same stroll. After a gelato break at Piazza Navona (Tartufo, of course!) we found the Pantheon to be packed, so we skipped it until later and headed to the Trevi Fountain. Everywhere was packed with tourists; the crowds have been heavier than during any of our prior visits, so we decided to head back towards our hotel and find some little place for dinner. We did, and sat outside and did a bit of people watching and ate lemon veal scaloppine and spaghetti with meat sauce, and a bottle of wine. That night we went over to the Colosseum for some night pictures, and walked back via the (also lit) Roman Forum and Palatine Hill before turning in. Turns out, the Colosseum was the start/finish line of the Rome Marathon to be run the next morning at 8am. The entire area was blocked off to traffic, but pedestrians were allowed in. Our feet and knees survived.

Sunday was the rainy morning start, but it was, shall we say odd, to see no traffic on any of the major streets of central Rome. Made it easy to walk, though. We meandered over to the Pantheon, watched it rain through the oculus, listened to the choir, looked at Rafael’s tomb, marveled at the construction and saw real domes, fake trompe l’oeil domes, a statue of Hercules, and then as the rain left and the sun came back out, went over to Trastevere to meet up with our great-nephew for lunch. Not sure where we ate, but had fried artichokes, burrata, and caccia e Pepe and ravioli. We were so stuffed that dinner later that night was only a little bread and cheese and that was it. Went back to the Trevi Fountain to toss in our three coins, and fight more crowds before our feet decided they were in need of a good rest before tackling the Vatican in the morning.

Monday was an easy get up, with breakfast at the hotel, which is marvelous, by the way. Juice, Cappuccino, espresso, eggs, meats, cheeses, pastries, cereals, fruit and bread from the famous bakery Roscioli which is literally six feet across the street from our front door. People come from all over Rome to get their bread and we have it delivered to our breakfast room.

We taxied over to the Vatican, where we fortunately had pre-purchased timed tickets, because the line for buying tickets was down the block and around the corner. I just measured it on google maps, and it says it was over 0.15 miles! Just to get a ticket. We walked right in, accompanied by dirty looks from those who did not prepurchase their tickets and who had to wait while tour groups and voucher holders walked by. I don’t know how many they let in at a time, but it was packed. Shuffle, shuffle, shuffle behind tour groups, dash to the side when the group paused, find a spot ahead, listen to the tour commentary on Rick Steves app, repeat at the next room.

Luckily for us, when we finally arrived at the Sistine chapel we found a space to sit down along the wall, and then were able to ‘join’ a tour group at the exit directly to St. Peter’s. This saved us walking 1.35 miles to return to the museum entrance, around the Vatican walls to the Piazza entrance and another long line waiting to enter the basilica plus another security check. They told us the basilica holds 60,000 people and it felt like all of them were there today. Even so, it felt less crowded there than inside the museum.

(Somewhere in the middle of writing this, Tom opened a bottle of wine, cut up some cheese and salami, and we went up to the rooftop to sit and relax. Our puffy white clouds are still around, as is the blue sky but it is starting to turn gray to the northwest)

And that about wraps it up for today. We’re finishing up the wine and cheese, we have checked in for our flight tomorrow on American, and we will be back in Albuquerque late on Tuesday. I hope you have enjoyed this blog as much as we have enjoyed writing it, and I will see you all back home.

Friday, April 5, 2019

Naples and Herculaneum

Naples and Herculaneum

Today we arrived in the port of Naples and we chose to go to Herculaneum. It took a few tries early in the morning to find an open ticket station, but we finally found one, got on the metro to the train station, bought a ticket on the Circumvesuviana train which took about 20 minutes to get to Herculaneum. Then it was a nice downhill walk to the small but beautifully preserved site. It’s right on the beach but about 70 feet below ground level, as that’s how deep the ash was.

We returned to Naples in time for lunch, and then we walked. Oh boy did we walk. As I write this my feet are propped up and I gulped down a couple more Tylenol’s. From the metro to the museum and than all the way back to the ship. Yes, it was downhill, but the ‘sidewalk’ is cobblestones, uneven and crooked. And we managed to get across the streets without getting run over. And now I think I know where the word cacophony came from. Naples is gritty and loud and exuberant and tough. It was a blast!

This afternoon is final packing, then final dinner tonight, and we depart early tomorrow morning for our hotel in Rome. I will try and post at least once from there, but it is hard to believe our cruise is over. But we are ready to come home, catch up on the news and get back to real life.

Thursday, April 4, 2019

Sicily

Messina, Sicily

We took it easy in Messina today...just walking around the town which is only 1/3 mile from the dock. Plus there is a very unique astronomical clock in the main plaza on the bell tower, and we wanted to see it in action at noon. Others are heading further afield, to Taormina, or Catania, but we’ve chosen to stay in Messina as our luck with weather has run out today, with wind and rain in the forecast. And boy, did it pour....smack dab at noon when the clock does its 10 minute show. Lions roar, roosters crow, saints march and bow, angels fly and bells ring.

However cold and windy it was, we did have fun venturing out. Tom climbed the bell tower to see the inner workings of the astronomical clock. And since the bells ring every quarter hour, he got those on film, too. And since we are in Sicily, even on a cold day, we had to try ‘panna con something’ because it is ‘typical of this region’. Tom accurately described it as a Frappuccino on steroids. Half a glass of whipped cream over half a glass of coffee granita. Plus a brioche.

Our tour of Malta yesterday was foiled by a construction crane that completely blocked the road leading from the pier where we were docked. After waiting around for 2 hours trying to find out how long the delay would be, we bailed at noon, and made our way by water ferry across to old town Valletta. It was a nice stroll around the town, and we chanced upon some unique shops and bought a couple of mementos.

My new left knee is holding up well, it has become pretty good at going up and down stairs, and has no pain after several hours of standing and walking. The right knee....well it can’t keep up. I’m trying to baby it some, and icing it and taking Tylenol for these heavy walking days. But it’s happy to have a light duty day in Sicily.

We’ll just have to come back some day and see the rest of Malta and more of Sicily; certainly quite picturesque.

The really difficult adjustment we have to make is that last night we received our disembark instructions and luggage tags. Booo! It meant we have only two days left on our cruise, and the dreaded packing back up begins tonight.

Tuesday, April 2, 2019

Malta!



We have arrived in the port of Valletta, Malta. It’s a wonderful jumble of old and new, constructed on top of a rock fortress and protected harbor. Malta is in the middle of the Med, just about a hundred miles south of Sicily, and about 200 miles east of Tunisia. It is only about 20 miles long but the location has dictated its importance, and its history. It has been at the crossroads of trade routes for centuries and has also endured invasions by many of the worlds greatest civilizations.

Nearby is the town of Mdina, (pronounced “um-deena”), which is where the apostle Paul is reported to have made his home after being shipwrecked in the year 60 AD. We are going off to that town for a bit of a tour this morning of the cathedral and catacombs before we return to Valletta for the afternoon.

Found in 1566, Valletta is the capital of Malta and it streets are lined with baroque buildings and churches. The city is filled with parks and quaint lanes and hills, lots of hills. Fortunately, there is also one very tall elevator.
Malta is also home to the worlds oldest ancient standing buildings. Even older than Stonehenge, the Tarxian temples are 5,600 years old.

The entry to the harbor is an ‘S’ curve requiring some slick parallel-parking types of maneuvers. We awoke before sunrise to head up on top of the bridge to watch the approach and tried to freeze ourselves with the wind and cooler temperatures. It will be a warmer day (62 degrees) and sunny so we will have another beautiful port day...the predicted rain has held off for yet another day. I’m going to try and post a picture of Malta, so will keep this post short...well, shorter.

Monday, April 1, 2019

Athens

We have been blessed thus far with gorgeous weather all trip. We had a smattering of raindrops once early on, but it has been very sunny weather all trip. Early on it was sticky and sweltering, but each day has been a bit cooler than the prior one. Since Dubai, the days have been lovely and in the 70’s.

Today in Athens was our first day where we did not get up above 69. Which was good for Athens, as touring there can be miserable in the heat, and we had lots of sun with beautiful skies, and some breezy moments.

Today at the Acropolis was fantastic...we got there just a few minutes after it opened and beat the crowds, getting some lovely pictures. Tried to add a photo the other day, still don’t have the high speed internet, so no luck. Might attempt one here later, but if it doesn’t load, you will just have to wait until I get back. I know I say that a lot to you.

After the Acropolis, and a spin through the museum, we strolled through the Plaka and found the little Greek cafe where we ate in 2012. Stavros was off on Mondays, but Tia Maria was there. We showed her the pictures from 2012 and after much kissing and smiles, she took good care of us with all sorts of extra delicacies served to us with our meal. And yes she wanted another hug and a picture.

Now we are approaching Italy and the forecast is for a week of rain, and possibly chilly temperatures. Dang it. We did not bring winter coats, knowing this was a possibility and a risk. We do have warm vests, long sleeves, warm hats, gloves and umbrellas. We will see how we fare over the next few days, but we may end up shopping...and Italy is not such a bad place to have to do that.